On Thursday March 4th, authorities from the Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board exercised a search based on a complaint against three Philadelphia area bars.  The three bars in question were Resurrection Ale House, Local 44, and Memphis Tap House and they were accused of having unregistered brands in violation of a 1987 statute whereby any brand sold in the state requires label registration and the paying of a 75 dollar fee.  On the following Monday, Orliglio Beverages, a distribution company in Philadelphia was also raided for the same reason.

Ignoring for the moment whether or not these laws make sense, there is clearly an issue when the authorities don’t know enough about the law they’re enforcing to be able to tell whether or not a given brand is or isn’t registered.  If the authority in charge of registration doesn’t have a grasp on this, how can bar owners and distributors be expected to?  In 1987 registering brands might not have been a terribly onerous proposition.  Beer shelves were filled with row after row of macro products with a few regional brands likely also vying for some space.  That is hardly the case anymore, with loads of microbreweries from around the country offering beer aficionados quality and selection that haven’t been seen before.  Indeed, there are reports that the authorities returned some beer to the bars after realizing that some of the confiscated brands were in fact, legitimately registered.

Confused yet?  Imagine being the bar owners.  Now the distributers may be a different story… laws are laws and even if they’re stupid, that doesn’t mean that you can choose to not follow them.  I think I should be allowed to punch any idiot on the LIRR who is blabbing away on their cell phone about the hot date they had last night, but that action would undoubtedly end up with me getting a visit from the appropriate authorities.  As in the case at the bars though, it isn’t clear that the authorities knew which brands were or weren’t appropriately registered and so you end without any resolution to the situation and a bunch of gun-toting cops with their dicks in their hands and egg on their face.

This raises a further question… why are raids necessary in the first place?  This isn’t like a Capone-era warehouse, filled with bootlegged Canadian whiskey… these are legitimate businesses that import products, pay customs fees, taxes and the like and generally try to comply with local laws and regulations.  They have manifests of products received and taxes and registrations paid, any of which could be used to determine whether any laws were broken without calling in the big guns.  In the event that they don’t, an inspection and a fine are usually all that are warranted to sort a situation out.  Since there is obviously confusion over the list on both sides of the thin blue line, and the PLCB website itself states, ”With respect to documents available from this server, neither the Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board, the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania, nor any of its employees, makes any warranty, express or implied, including the warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose, or assumes any legal liability or responsibility for the accuracy, completeness, or usefulness of any information, apparatus, product, or process disclosed, or represents that its use would not infringe privately owned rights.”

Since the State of Pennsylvania doesn’t have any confidence in their own registration process, it seems like a terrible waste of PLCB resources as well as a squandering of the already tepid support for PA beer laws that do exist.

This last point is worth mentioning because it seems like this is exactly what is happening.  In this political climate, elected officials are trampling over one another to denounce the raids as an overreaction, and those denouncements seem to have actually brought this long-simmering issue to a head.  Public hearings have been ordered and, at least on this issue, both Republicans and Democrats seem to be united.

A further issue that has less to do with the law itself but rather with it’s application.  As is generally agreed in this case, the raids were inspired by an anonymous tip and all the bars that were identified were owned by the same owners.  This fact alone should have at least suggested to the authorities that they were being dragged into a business dispute.  Even a cursory examination of online sites listing beer brand availability would show that a number of Philadelphia bars are selling and marketing non-registered brands, yet these locations were not being looked at, either because no complaints have been received against them or because the PLCB is too inept to know how to actually enforce their own rules.  This situation reminds me of a case in New York last year, where an Upper East Side bar, Mad River Bar & Grille, that served as a home bar for the University of Wisconsin Badgers was selling New Glarus Spotted Cow, a beer that is not licensed for sale in New York.  This raid was also based on an anonymous tip and resulted in a $20 000 dollar fine for the offending bar (and likely a smile for the bar’s competitor who called in the complaint, but that’s just supposition on my part).

So where does this leave Pennsylvania beer lovers?  Right back where they started.  The beer registration laws do nothing to increase public safety (ostensibly the reason for registration in the first place) and do a whole lot to place a burden on businesses who are perfectly willing to collect and pay taxes on beer through officially sanctioned channels but will continue.  Until the PLCB and Pennsylvania lawmakers realize that the beer registration laws are archaic and punitive, I fear that we’ll see a repeat of this farce in the coming months and years.

Anyone who has had imported beer in green or clear glass bottles has experienced “skunk.” I think skunk is a major contributor to the belief that Heineken consumed in Europe is somehow different from that consumed in the US. (It’s not. It’s just fresher.) It’s also the primary reason that Corona is served with a lime. (It masks the smell.) The flavor and aroma of skunk is so ubiquitous that many people believe that is what beer tastes like, especially higher-priced “premium” beer. But one run of the Urquell Challenge will prove the lie. Do a side-by-side comparison of Pilsner Urquell from a green bottle and from a can. The example from the bottle will almost certainly taste and smell like the hind end of a black and white striped critter, while the example from the can will reveal the soft graininess and exquisite floral hops that started a global beer revolution almost a hundred and seventy years ago. Beer most definitely shouldn’t taste like skunk.

Beer skunking is the result of a photochemical reaction of certain compounds in hops with certain wavelengths of light. Bitterness in beer is caused by three alpha acid resins found in the hop lupulin glands, humulone, cohumulone, and adhumulone. These compounds are insoluble in water until they have been chemically altered (isomerized) by boiling, in other words you don’t get the bitterness without the boil. Unfortunately, the isomerized alpha acids (isohumulones) are also light reactive. When they are attacked by light in the blue and ultraviolet wavelengths from sunlight or fluorescents they break down into free radicals called thiols or mercaptans that are chemical analogs to the compounds found in a skunk’s scent glands. The particular culprits in beer are methyl or isopentyl mercaptans. Humans have a very low perception threshold for these compounds of just 0.05 parts per billion. As my pilsner experience illustrates, the reaction happens in seconds. I could smell it within the first couple minutes of being outside. By the time I was taking the final sips I could taste it as well.

So how can you avoid drinking skunky beer? If you are going to drink outside on a sunny day, you really can’t. (Unless you drink from the bottle or can. But don’t do that. Beer belongs in a glass.) I’m not suggesting you stop enjoying a lovely beer on the patio, just be aware that most beers will be skunked by the time you have finished. Otherwise, avoid beers in green and clear glass. Most beers packaged that way aren’t worth drinking anyway. Those that are almost always come in cans as well. Opt for the can. Cans are a superior package in many ways, not the least of which is the total blockage of light in all wavelengths. Brown glass does not offer complete protection, but it does a reasonably good job of blocking harmful light. Unfortunately some of the world’s great beers, Saison Dupont for example, are still packaged in green glass bottles. If you want to enjoy one of those you just have to hope for the best.

Because most liquor stores are lit by fluorescents, beers can become skunked while sitting on the shelf. Some better beer stores use low-cost blue light filters on their fluorescent fixtures to minimize this. Encourage your local package store owner to look into this option. If that is not the case, choose bottles that are protected from light either by their placement at the back of the shelf or by light-blocking exterior packaging. And it is always a good idea to look for the freshest bottles you can find. Those dust covered beers that haven’t been moved in months are good candidates for skunk no matter the color of the bottle.

I’ll close by issuing what may be a controversial challenge to some. Try Heineken from a can or draft. Without the skunk its really not such a bad beer despite its 6th percentile rating on Ratebeer.

Image courtesy of Carlsberg Group

Following up on Steve Koenemann’s recent Beers of Spring article (and the fact that I was biking around in a t-shirt last weekend), it seems an appropriate time to once again plunge into the murky depths of the Ratebeer database and emerge with a corresponding Top 10 Beers list. Here’s to the finest spring seasonals the world has to offer.

As Steve pointed out, Doppelbocks and Maibocks (the latter typically filed under Heller Bock in the database) have their historical roots in the spring seasons.  I’ve included Bieres de Mars as well (literally translated as “March Beers” in French), along with any other brews corresponding to Lent, Easter, and/or the springtime months in general. Ratebeer’s Top Seasonals of Spring List was a useful starting point for some of these other beers, but the majority of the things on there don’t exactly make one think “Spring!” For the purposes of highlighting beers people can track down, I’ve also required a minimum rating count of 100, which mostly eliminated a bunch of nearly impossible-to-find doppelbocks.

As always, the intent here is to highlight some excellent, lesser-known releases. Similarly, you can check out the Unofficial Top 10 Winter Holiday Beers.

Ratebeer.com’s Unofficial
Top 10 Beers of Spring

#1 - Ayinger Celebrator Doppelbock (4.1 / Doppelbock)

Presumably one of the only bottled beers in the world that comes with its own charm bracelet, Ayinger Celebrator is generally regarded as one of the finest examples of the doppelbock style. “Bock” means “goat” or “ram” in German, and “doppel” means “jewelry made with string.” (I kid.) This beer is available across the country, but it’s even better when you occasionally find it on draft. I still have fond memories of sipping snifters of this at Frisco Grille back in Maryland.

#2 - Andechser Doppelbock Dunkel (3.92  / Doppelbock)

The only beer on the list that isn’t distributed within the States, it’s certainly worth trading for or scrounging up during your next European jaunt. Huge amounts of melanoidins and toasty cereal, this full-bodied lager stays highly drinkable.

#3 - Aecht Schlenkerla Fastenbier (3.89 / Smoked)

One of Brauerei Heller’s two current seasonal offerings (along with the Eiche or “Oak Smoke” around Christmas) you can find this beer in kegs at select craft beer bars between both coasts. An unfiltered Lentbeer made with charismatic beechwood-smoked malts, this beer provides loads of flavor (smoked meats, pepper, significant spiciness, and hints of vanilla) for only 5.5% ABV.

#4 - Thomas Hooker Liberator Doppelbock (3.84 / Doppelbock)
#5 - Weltenburger Kloster Asam Bock (3.82 / Doppelbock)
#6 - Fish Tale Detonator Doppelbock (3.81 / Doppelbock)

Three more excellent and reasonably available examples of the doppelbock style round out the Top 6, offering notes of nougat, caramel, and dried dark fruits.

#7 (tied) - Jolly Pumpkin Bière de Mars (3.76 / Bière de Garde)

While earlier versions of this funky bière de garde seemed to be amongst the most acidic of Jolly Pumpkin’s lineup, recent batches allow the oak, vanilla, and fruitiness to show through more clearly. The Bière de Mars Grand Reserve is even better, although a new batch hasn’t been released in quite some time.

#7 (tied) - De Dolle Boskeun (3.76 / Belgian Strong Ale)

The very recent fire at De Dolle’s facilities in Belgium thankfully turned out to be slightly less dire than originally thought – and we hope for a speedy recovery for everyone involved. Their irreverence and focus on cellar-friendly Belgian beers appear here as a 7% Belgian Strong Ale with a buck-toothed cartoon bunny on its label. Kris Herteleer makes some of the finest big beers on the planet.

#9 - Sierra Nevada Southern Hemisphere Harvest (3.75 / India Pale Ale (IPA))

While fresh hop harvests in the northern hemisphere occur in the fall, things go down somewhat differently on the opposite side of the world. This seasonal is a great example of what New Zealand hops can offer to craft brewing: especially gooseberry and mineral notes reminiscent of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.

#10 - Southampton Biere de Mars (3.74 / Bière de Garde)

A lot of these beers take me back to my time on the East Coast – whether it’s drinking Celebrator on tap at Frisco’s or pours of Schlenkerla Fastenbier and Southampton Biere de Mars at Max’s in Baltimore. This will be my first spring out on this side of the country, and while the Biere de Mars is generally hard to find even on its own coast, maybe, just maybe, there’s a solid German restaurant pouring smoked beers nearby… Or, maybe it’s time for a trip into the City.

Honorable Mention - The Bruery Saison de Lente (3.72 / Saison)

I couldn’t help but mention Saison de Lente with this list, as it’s one of my favorite beers from The Bruery (and my highest-rated spring beer…). Crisp and hoppy upon release, this Brettanomyces-infused saison develops a beautiful tartness and citric acidity after nine months or more in the bottle.

This week I went to a meet the brewer event for the Wetherspoon’s International Real Ale Festival which starts in April. Say what you want about Wetherspoons, but I think the positives outweigh the negatives and I am particularly excited about this year’s selection of 50 beers. We will see Goose Island’s Honkers Ale, Maui Brewing’s CoCoNut Porter (a 5% version), Zulu Blonde from Zululand Brewing and Val-Dieu Abbaye Blonde. There are also many ‘Spoons specials and there will be a lot of American hops present in the beers. It should be good one.

After this I went to the London Drinker Beer and Cider Festival where I met up with my mate Matt. The festival is in the Camden Centre in the shadow of the hauntingly beautiful Kings Cross Station. This is always a busy event and while the centre is good for a festival (high ceilings, square hall, side bar), perhaps they have outgrown themselves… Anyway, it’s all about the beer. In the main hall is the UK stuff and then to the side there is a very decent selection of European bottles and draught.

I started on the British cask beer, as I promised myself I would. Crouch Vale Amarillo, a 5% pale ale full of gorgeous Amarillo, was fruity and light and absolutely delicious. We had some Thornbridge Jaipur, of course (it’s impossible to resist), then the new Fuller’s special, Bengal Lancer, an IPA with that typical Fuller’s spicy marmalade with a top note of lemons and fresh jam and a kick of pepper. Between us, the rest of the evening included, in alphabetical order: An okay half of Acorn Motueka IPA; a lemony Art Brew Hip Hop Bobek; Brodies Special which was a very nice, dry-finishing bitter which actually was bitter (as opposed to those sorry boring brown beers); Brodies Amarilla had lots of fruity hop flavour wasn’t quite as good as the wonderful Crouch Vale; Cheddar Goats Leap, a decent IPA with a nice biting hop finish; Cliff Quay Black Jack Porter which smelt and tasted exactly like black jack chewy sweets and that’s not a good thing; Gales Prize Old Ale, which Matt declared the best beer of the night, was big and fruity, complex but not complicated and with that teasing hint of sour cherry beneath; Denton’s Glory from Hornbeam was a very nice pale ale with a super-dry finish and a good find for the night; Naylors Magnum was a tasty drop, fruity and with a nice bready sweetness; and, Redemption’s Urban Dusk was an interesting dark amber colour with a huge coffee nose and a light body, interesting and intriguing and great to try something from this new London brewery. We also had a couple from the bottle bar too, just to finish us off. Hanssens Oudbeitje and something from De Molen, I don’t remember what but it was a fantastic stout.

London Drinker is a very good festival, although perhaps over-busy which detracts somewhat (squeezing through a packed hall of men to get a half is not particularly fun). The good thing about this festival, for me, was drinking some new beers from London – Brodies, Fuller’s and Redemption, plus choices from Sambrook’s and Twickenham. With a few new breweries on the way, and some new or improved pubs, things are looking good in London right now.

As spring arrives, so do the beers more appropriate to the season; a return of beers more suited to the warmer weather and a transition between the heavy/alcoholic beers of winter and the much lighter beers of summer. Traditionally these spring beers have included some of the broad category German bockbiers, but also include a number of other beers (depending upon which “expert” you choose to believe); Belgian wits and other wheat beers of various types, fruit beers, Saisons and stouts seem to round out everyone’s list.

Bavarian brewers are famous for their “beer for every season” approach to beer making and there is, in truth, a bockbier for every season except summer. Most bocks are lagers (top-fermented weizenbocks are ales), tend to be darker in color, quite malty and can run anywhere from around 6% ABV to more than 24% ABV; as evidenced by the Utopias Dopplebock by the Boston Beer Company. Typically produced in the fall, when barley and hops are plentiful, these beers are then stored or “lagered” for longer periods of time to produce the mellow drinkability that they are famous for. The types of bock most commonly associated with the spring season are the dopplebocks and the maibocks.

• As the story goes, the hearty dopplebock beers were originally produced by the Paulaner monks around Munich to sustain them during their Lenten fast leading up to Easter. These monk-produced brews first became available commercially about 1780 and were readily embraced by the German beer-loving public. As with this original dopplebock, which these monks called “Salvator”, many names of dopplebocks end in “-ator”. Dopplebocks, literally “double bocks”, tend to be higher in alcohol than their regular cousins, but retain their intense, malt-focused flavors; without much hop bitterness or hop flavor. Examples of dopplebocks would be Ayinger Celebrator, Thomas Hooker Liberator and Brooklyn Brooklynator.
• Maibocks, literally “May bock” and also known as Frühlingsbock (Springtime bock) or Helles/Heller bock, tend to be much lighter in color (almost blonde) and more highly hopped than the traditional bocks. Maibocks are truly a transitional beer which fit nicely in between the winter Starkbier (”strong beer”) season and the summer season when the Helles and Weissbier style beers return to the liter steins of the beer gardens. Examples of maibocks would be Smuttynose Maibock, Rogue Dead Guy Ale and the new Sierra Nevada Glissade Golden Bock.

There are other beers that are considered to be “spring beers”, either because they follow the German tradition of changing seasons or simply because that is when the brewer releases them annually.

• Stouts, Irish stouts in particular, are included in springtime beers mostly due to their association with the March St. Patrick’s Day celebration. These Irish or “dry” stouts typically are very dark in color and lower in both hopping level and gravity than most of their American cousins. Traditional examples would be Guinness Draught and Murphy’s Irish Stout.
• Spiced beers, such as Belgian Wits and ginger beers, are associated with spring due to their lighter character and the wake-up call for the senses that they provide. This is not dissimilar to the higher hopping level of the German maibocks, which is intended to break one out of the winter doldrums. Examples of these might include Avery White Rascal or Long Trail Brewmaster Series Winter White.
• From my experience, most of the fruit beers that appear to be associated with springtime seem to be simply a matter of release timing from the breweries. I sure that the same reasoning as for the spiced beers could be applied, but I found no such references. A good (and delicious) example of this would be Dogfish Head Aprihop which comes available in March and April every year.

Whatever your excuse, use the harbinger of spring to break away from the traditional winter brews you have been drinking and find something new, fresh and different to brighten up your world. After all, spring only comes once a year and if you are like me, you see that as the perfect opportunity to find great beer rather than simply a return to warmer weather.

So let’s take a tour of some of the Oregon breweries that might be lesser-known but have something unique to offer—and in doing so provide yet more reasons why Oregon is a world-class Beer Destination (with the capital of Beervana, of course).

Brewers Union Local 180

This tiny brewpub located in the tiny mountain town of Oakridge shares a certain distinction in the Oregon brew scene: it’s the only Real Ale pub in the entire state, which means all of their beers are cask-conditioned and only cask-conditioned.

Ordinarily you’d expect to find something of this nature to be found in Portland (Oregon’s beer capital), but the fact that it’s located off the beaten path certainly adds to the appeal. Fresh, original cask-conditioned beers? Yes please.

48329 E. 1st St.
Oakridge, OR 97463

Pelican Pub & Brewery

The Pelican has hands-down the best location of any brewery ever: on the beach in Pacific City. And when I say “on the beach,” I mean literally on the beach: you can walk out the back door onto sand and the beach volleyball court, and directly down to the water. Pacific City’s beach is a popular destination for surfers (cold water surfing, that is), and is the launching and landing point for the town’s dory fleet (there is no natural bay there, so the tiny dory boats launch and land directly from the beach at high tide).

The beach is alluring, but so is the beer: Pelican has been brewing award-winning beers from one end of the style range to the other, from their acclaimed Kiwanda Cream Ale to their recent Perfect Storm, a 13.5% barleywine aged in bourbon barrels that sold for $20 a bottle, only available directly from the brewery.

33180 Cape Kiwanda Drive
Pacific City, OR 97135

Caldera Brewing Company

Oregon’s premier canning microbrewery is located in the scenic, Shakespeare-infested town of Ashland—which itself is a beautiful stretch of Southern Oregon that is itself a destination. The canned beers are standard fare: Caldera Pale Ale, IPA, and Ashland Amber. But Caldera brews much more than those—interesting, creative beers with ginger and peppercorns and orange and chocolate.

I was going to write that you can only sample these from the brewery in Ashland—but a quick check of their website revealed that they’ve started bottling in 22-ounce bombers just last month (no word on availability). But don’t let that stop you—Ashland alone is worth the trip.

540 Clover Lane
Ashland, OR 97520

Elliot Glacier Public House

Located in the tiny community of Parkdale, just south of Hood River, Elliot Glacier has by all accounts a location and a view that almost rivals that of the Pelican Pub: you can sit on their back patio and be regaled with a magnificent view of Mount Hood. The Public House itself is small and unassuming, enjoying the laid-back agricultural surroundings of the area.

Parkdale is only about 17 miles from Hood River, so you’ll be able to take in Elliot Glacier and Double Mountain (below) all in the same day.

4945 Baseline Dr.
Parkdale, OR 97041

Upright Brewing

When you hear, “traditional farmhouse brewing with open fermenters,” Oregon is probably not high on your list of locations where you’d find such breweries. But Upright Brewing in Portland could be on the track to change that: I know of no other brewery in Oregon using open fermenters for all of their beers.

In addition to the lineup of Belgian- and French-inspired farmhouse ales, Upright is brewing up some eye-opening styles: a Gose, an Oyster Stout, an English Old Ale dosed with Brettanomyces. The tasting room is only open on weekends, so plan your trip accordingly.

240 N. Broadway
Portland, OR 97227

McMenamins (various)

Yes, I’ve cheated a bit here: McMenamins owns brewpubs and more all over the Pacific Northwest so technically they qualify as more than one visit on this list. But some of their properties are so unique that I couldn’t resist. Here are several of their destinations you have to visit:

• The Edgefield: McMenamins’ estate destination, a coverted “poor farm” in Troutdale that features not only a brewery and a vineyard and winery, but a distillery as well.
• The Kennedy School: an historic elementary school in Portland converted to a hotel, restaurant, theater pub, brewery, and more.
• White Eagle Saloon: an early Portland landmark known for its (formerly) rough reputation and shady past, rumored to be haunted.
• The Old St. Francis School: I had to pick one from Bend, you know! This former Catholic school property was converted to a hotel, with restaurant, several bars, a theater pub, and guest cottages.

The Raccoon Lodge/Cascade Brewing

It’s almost not possible to be a beer geek on the west coast and not have heard of Ron Gansberg and the amazing beers he’s brewing at Cascade Brewing: American Wild Ales, simply put, with an emphasis on barrel-aging and blending. Oh, you’ll find the standards at the Raccoon Lodge, but it’s the Belgian-inspired beers you’ll be talking about.

7424 SW Beaverton-Hillsdale Hwy
Portland, OR 97225

Block 15 Brewery

The most I know about Block 15 is something that is likely to be inflammatory to the beer geek community: blogger Dave Selden called it the “next Russian River.” Our own Lisa Morrison gave Block 15 some similar love last month in her writeup of the Corvallis breweries. Corvallis is a big college town, but Block 15 is brewing anything but “frat boy beer”: a sour Wit, a bourbon-barrel 15% Belgian stout, and the requisite Imperial IPA, to name a few.

They aren’t afraid to experiment, and they definitely aren’t afraid of barrels: both wine and spirit barrels are on-hand in their “barrel library,” and a good overview of the various styles and ingredients they’ve been playing with to date can be found on their blog. The next Russian River? Maybe.

300 SW Jefferson Ave.
Corvallis, OR 97333

Double Mountain Brewery and Taproom

Located in Hood River, Double Mountain has an old-school funky beerhouse vibe to go along with their funky beers: not “funky” in a bad way, but in the unique twists to style they’ve been brewing. From a beautiful Kölsch to an “India Red Ale,” to some notable Krieks brewed with local cherries, Double Mountain has a solid beer geek following around Oregon.

There’s lots to like in Hood River and the surrounding area, too, so while you’re coming for the beer, you may stick around for a bit more.

8 Fourth Street
Hood River, OR 97031

Heater Allen Brewing Company

This small operation located in the Willamette Valley’s city of McMinnville had the distinction of being Oregon’s only all-lager brewer for awhile (now I believe they’ve brewed a few ale styles, as well). In a craft beer market dominated by ales, going all-lager is a risky move, but it’s been paying off for them so far and they’ve been gaining a following in Oregon.

Visits to the brewery are more-or-less by appointment only, so call ahead before you go.

907 NE 10th Ave.
McMinnville, OR 97128

Of course, there are negative sides as well. While bigger, more established companies experience many of the pros, smaller companies have a lot of trouble catching up and keeping up. Carrying any sort of overhead cuts you down at the knees. And for the consumer, even one who may desire to purchase locally, the local economy suffers.

With that being said, let’s talk about beer.

As craft beer drinkers, we talk about buying local, supporting the local brewery, and teaching our friends, loved ones, and random passerby on the street about craft beer. We revel in telling someone that “oh, actually, Blue Moon is made by Coors, so it’s not really craft”, and enjoy arguing whether or not Sam Adams counts as craft anymore. We watch Beer Wars and I Am A Craft Brewer, and get all amped up to join forces and fight the man.

I remember when the whole Monster v Rockart fiasco happened, I saw Hansen Beverage Company’s brand portfolio. Then I went and looked at Anheuser Busch’s portfolio. And it was shocking at just how many brands these big companies own.

Throw in international law, differences between national and multi-national corporate portfolios, and the difference between what “public knowledge” means and how accessible it actually is, and your head starts to spin.

This all came about when my buddy Tyler goes “Did you know Coors owns La Fin du Monde?!” earlier today. Well no, I did not know that. Is that true?

It’s hard to say.

I tried to find out through some simple scouring of corporate websites, and couldn’t find the information. I turned to Wikipedia for a little help, and they suggest that no, MolsonCoors does not own Unibroue (the brewers of La Fin du Monde). But Sapporo does.

Sapporo’s website doesn’t list Unibroue anywhere. But they do list Guinness. Which is actually owned by Diageo. Which also owns Red Stripe and Smithwicks.

I guess this just poses a few questions, more than answering anything in particular. As a brewery grows, does it have a choice? Can a brewery maintain the quality and passion, yet still distribute to 47 states and 17 countries? Or is it more of a “I knew them back when you didn’t” mentality, and once they break a certain production level, they’re no longer loved? If, somehow, MillerCoors came out with a stout that rivaled , or Sapporo started shipping a barrel-aged lambic blend that could fit in with Lost Abbey’s portfolio, would you like it?

Sam Adams is publicly-owned. New Belgium is employee-owned. Most small breweries are independently owned. Some are public. Do you care?

For me, I like to know someone made the beer. I realize that all beer is made by someone. But I like to know that there is some brewer working his or her ass off to make something special, not just plugging in the same recipe day in and day out to some massive machine. Maybe I’m romanticizing it a bit, but that’s where I differentiate between Great Divide and Anheuser Busch. I know the brewers at Great Divide. I’ve seen them cleaning out the mash tun. I realize that there is someone at AB doing that, but it feels more like a factory than a craft to me. And in a blind taste test, I’m pretty sure I could differentiate Bud Light from a Yeti. Hopefully…

It’s not entirely a scale issue, is it? Sam Adams makes some pretty decent beers, and they make a lot. Granted, there are more barrels of Blue Moon sold than pretty much all the barrels in the craft beer segment combined. But at the same time, I’ve also had some pretty gross beers made on a 10 barrel system.

I want to know what you think. But before you go bashing the big boys, stop and think about what I’ve said. Then, you may bash away.

For your reference, here are some brand portfolios. I’ve listed New Belgium, Sam Adams, MillerCoors, SABMiller, and Anheuser-Busch InBev.

New Belgium

(Source – http://www.newbelgium.com/beer)

Fat Tire, Sunshine Wheat, Blue Paddle, 1554, Mothership Wit, Abbey, Trippel, Ranger IPA, Mighty Arrow, Skinny Dip, 2˚ Below, Frambozen, Hoptober, Le Fleur Misseur, La Folie, Dunkelweiss 30˚, Dark Kriek, Abbey Grand Cru, Biere de Mars, Dandelion Ale, Transatlantique Kriek, Fall Wild Ale, Dark Heather Saison, Trippel IPA, The Trip II, Trip III

Sam Adams – Boston Beer Company

http://www.samueladams.com/world_of_beer.aspx

Samuel Adams Boston Lager, Sam Adams Light, Noble Pils, Summer Ale, Octoberfest, Winter Lager, Old Fezziwig Ale, Cranberry Lambic, Holiday Porter, Boston Ale, Cherry Wheat, Cream Stout, Hefeweizen, Pale Ale, Scotch Ale, Black Lager, Brown Ale, Honey Porter, Irish Red, Blackberry Witbier, Coastal Wheat, White Ale, Double Bock, Imperial White, Imperial Stout, Utopias, Chocolate Bock, Millennium, Triple Bock, Imperial Pilsner 2005 Harvest, Hallertau 24

MillerCoors (USA)

(Source – http://www.millercoors.com/news/facts-and-resources/miller-coors-brands.aspx)

Domestic: Coors, Coors Light, Extra Gold Lager, Hamm’s, Hamms’ Golden Draft, Hamm’s Special Light, Icehouse 5.0, Icehouse 5.5, Icehouse Light, Keystone Ice, Keystone Light, Keystone Premium, Magnum Malt Liquor, MGD 64, Mickey’s, Mickey’s Ice, Miller Chill, Miller Genuine Draft, Miller High Life, Miller High Life Light, Miller Lite, Milwaukee’s Best, Milwaukee’s Best Ice, Milwaukee’s Best Light, Olde English 800, Olde English 800 7.5, Olde English High Gravity 800, Red Dog, Southpaw Light, Steel Reserve, Steel Reserve Triple Export 8.1%, Steel Six

Import: Águila, Cristal, Cusqueña, Grolsch Amber Ale, Grolsch Blonde Lager, Grolsch Light Lager, Grolsch Premium Lager, Lech, Molson Canadian, Molson Canadian Light, Molson Golden, Molson Ice, Molson XXX, Peroni  Nastro Azzurro, Pilsner Urquell, Tyskie

Craft: Blue Moon Belgian White, Blue Moon Full Moon Winter Ale, Blue Moon Harvest Moon Pumpkin Ale, Blue Moon Honey Moon Summer Ale, Blue Moon Rising Moon Spring Ale, Frederick Miller Classic Chocolate Lager, Henry Weinhard’s Belgian Style Wheat, Henry Weinhard’s Blonde, Henry Weinhard’s Blue Boar, Henry Weinhard’s Classic Dark Lager, Henry Weinhard’s Hefeweizen, Henry Weinhard’s India Pale Ale, Henry Weinhard’s Private Reserve, Leinenkugel’s Berry Weiss, Leinenkugel’s BIG BUTT Dopplebock, Leinenkugel’s Classic Amber Lager, Leinenkugel’s Creamy Dark, Leinenkugel’s Fireside Nut Brown, Leinenkugel’s Honey Weiss, Leinenkugel’s Light, Leinenkugel’s Oktoberfest Lager, Leinenkugel’s Original Lager, Leinenkugel’s Red Lager, Leinenkugel’s Summer Shandy, Leinenkugel’s Sunset Wheat, Sheaf Stout

SABMiller (International)

(Source – http://www.sabmiller.com/index.asp?pageid=315 )

Aguila, Aguila Light, Arany Ászok, Arequipeña, Atlas, Balboa, Balimi Extra Lager, Barena – El Salvador/Peru, Barena – Honduras, Barons, Blue Moon, Bluetongue Alcoholic Ginger Beer, Bluetongue Premium Lager, Bluetongue Premium Light, Bluetongue Traditional Pilsner, Bohlinger’s Lager, Bondi Blonde, Brutal Fruit, Carling Black Label, Castle Lager, Castle Lite, Castle Milk Stout, Chairman’s Extra Strong Beer, Chibuku, Ciucas, Club Colombia, Club Pilsener, Club Premium Lager, Club Premium Lager – Ghana, Club Shandy, Conquer, Coors Light, Costeña, Cristal, Cusqueña, Cusqueña Malta, Dębowe Mocne, Dorada, Dorada – Ecuador, Dorada Especial, Dorada Sin, Dreher Bak, Dreher Classic, Dreher Premium, Dreher 24, Eagle Extra Lager, Eagle Lager, Foster’s, Frisco, Frisco Dry, Fusion, Gambrinus, Gambrinus Dia, Gambrinus Premium, Gingers, Golden Light, Golden Pilsener, Gran Riserva, Grolsch, Grolsch Blond, Grolsch Weizen, Hamm’s, Hansa Marzen Gold, Hansa Pilsener, Haywards 2000, Haywards 5000, Haywards Black, Henry Weinhard’s Belgian Style Wheat, Henry Weinhard’s Blonde, Henry Weinhard’s Blue Boar Pale Ale, Henry Weinhard’s Classic Dark, Henry Weinhard’s Hefeweizen, Henry Weinhard’s India Pale Ale, Henry Weinhard’s Private Reserve, Huadan Dry Beer, Icehouse, Imperial, Indus Pride, Kilimanjaro, Knock Out, Kőbányai Sör, Ksiazece Tyskie, Laurentina Clara, Laurentina Premium, Laurentina Preta, Lech Free, Lech Lite, Lech Mocny, Lech Pils, Lech Premium, Leinenkugel’s Amber Light, Leinenkugel’s Berry Weiss, Leinenkugel’s Big Butt Doppelbock, Leinenkugel’s Creamy Dark Lager, Leinenkugel’s Honey Weiss, Leinenkugel’s Light, Leinenkugel’s Oktoberfest, Leinenkugel’s Original, Leinenkugel’s Red Lager, Lion Lager, Löwen, Maluti Premium Lager, Manica, MGD 64, Mickey’s Malt Liquor, Miller Chill, Miller Genuine Draft, Miller High Life, Miller Lite, Miller Midnight, Milwaukee’s Best, Milwaukee’s Best Ice, Milwaukee’s Best Light, Mosi, Moya Kaluga, Ndovu Special Malt, New Three Star, N’GOLA, Nile Special, Olde English 800 Malt Liquor, Peroni, Peroni Leggera, Peroni Nastro Azzurro, Pilsen, Pilsen Callao, Pilsen Polar, Pilsen Trujillo, Pilsener – Ecuador, Pilsener – El Salvador, Pilsner Urquell, Poker, Port Royal, Radegast Birell, Radegast Original, Radegast Premium, Raffo, Raiz, Redd’s Apple, Redd’s Dry, Redd’s Premium Original, Redd’s Red, Redd’s Sun, Regia Extra, Rhino Lager, Royal Challenge Premium Lager, Safari, SalvaVida®, San Juan, Šariš Dark, Šariš Light, Šariš Premium, Sarita, Shengquan, Singo, Siroco by Tropical, Skelter’s Straight, Smädný Mnìch, Snow, St. Louis, Stejar, Stone Strong Lager, Suprema, Timisoreana, Topvar, Tri Bogatyrya Svetloye, Tropical, Tropical Premium, Tusker, Tyskie Gronie, Ursus Premium, Velkopopovický Kozel, Velkopopovický Kozel Cerny, Velkopopovický Kozel Premium, Velkopopovický Kozel Svěltý, White Bull, Wojak, Wührer, Zero, Zolotaya Bochka Klassicheskoye, Zolotaya Bochka Platinovoe, Zolotaya Bochka Razlyvnoe, Zolotaya Bochka Svetloye, Zolotaya Bochka Vyderzhannoye, Zorok, Żubr, Zambezi Lager, Zambezi Lite, 2M

Anheuser-Busch

(Source – http://www.ab-inbev.com/go/brands/brand_portfolio/local_brands.cfm)

Alexander Keith’s, Antarctica, Aqua Fratelli Vita, Astika Fine Quality Lager, Baisha, BagBier, Bass, Belle-Vue, Boddingtons, Bohemia, Boomerang, Bud Light (U.S.), Bud Light (Canada), Caracu, Castlemaine XXXX, Chernigivske, Diebels, Diekirch, Dimix, Dommelsch, Double Deer, Franziskaner Hefe-Weissbier Hell, Franziskaner Hefe-Weissbier Dunkel, Franziskaner Weissbier Kristallklar, Gilde Ratskeller, Guaraná Antarctica, Guaraná Brahma, Haake-Beck, Harbin, Hasserõder, Hertog Jan, Hoegaarden Citrons, Hougaerdse Das, Jinling, Jinlongquan, Julius, Jupiler, KK, Klinskoye, Kokanee, La Bécasse, Labatt Blue, Labatt Blue Light, Labatt Family, Labatt Ice, Labatt Sterling, Lakeport Pilsener, Liber, Löwenbräu, Löwenbräu Oktoberfestbier, Löwenbräu Original, Marathon, Michelob Lager, Mousel, Murphy’s, Oranjeboom, Paceña, Permskoye Gubernskoye, Piedboeuf, Phoenix, Quilmes Cristal, Red Shilliang, Rifey, Rogan, Safir, Santai, Sedrin, Sibirskaya Korona, Skol, Spaten Original Munich Beer, St. Pauli Girl, Sukita, Tolstiak, Vieux Temps, Yali, Yantar, Zizhulin, Zhujiang

You can check out this quick video about what’s going on.

To summarize, 15 armed State Police officers conducted simultaneous raids on Resurrection Ale House, Local 44, and Memphis Taproom, the three Philadelphia beer bars owned by Leigh Maida and Brendan Hartranft. Now, why the heck would they do that?

Well, the PLCB requires that brewers (or their importers) pay a $75 fee to register the names of all beers sold in state of Pennsylvania. An anonymous citizen filed a complaint against the owners of the three bars, stating that they were selling unregistered beers, even though said beers had been legally purchased from licensed PA distributors.

And so, three teams simultaneously descended upon the three locations to check their inventories against the official registry, a list containing nearly 3,000 brands. The police officers confiscated four kegs and 317 bottles, which is right around 2 bbl of beer, valued at $7,200.

Shortly after the bar raids, the BLCE raided Origlio Beverage, the distributor that the bars had purchased from. They searched the warehouse specifically for the brands that had been confiscated from the three bars, seizing what they could, and demanding that Origlio stop sales of what they couldn’t fit in their vehicle.

Okay, so, this sounds fairly justified, right? The bars and distributor were selling unregistered beer, which is against the law, and therefore, the beer was confiscated. But as it turns out, more than half of the confiscated beer actually did appear on the registry, the cops simply couldn’t find them on the list. Whaaa?

Apparently, some of the names on the list did not exactly match the name on the product. For example, “Duvel Belgian Golden Ale” is listed as “Duvel Beer” on the registry. And the cops couldn’t figure this out. Huh.

Leigh Maida, one of the owners of the three bars, was quoted as saying, “My main beef with this whole convoluted situation is that the PLCB is the sole regulator of a set of products that they do not even know the names of.” Amen.

So where is all this confiscated beer, and what’s going to happen to it? State Police Sergeant William N. La Torre, commanding officer of the BLCE, said that the beer would be kept in a “secured location” as evidence until the case is resolved, which could take several months. If it is determined that the beer is indeed unregistered, it will be destroyed. That’s thousands of dollars down the drain for the bar owners. Ouch.

There are several things that are disturbing about this situation.

Firstly, why the heck is there a registration process in the first place? Francesca Chapman, a spokesperson for the PLCB, said that the requirement helps assure that beer taxes are being paid, and helps prosecutors to identify alcoholic beverages in DUI cases. Right. Pretty sure the owners would have to have paid taxes on the beer since they legally purchased it through a PA distributor. And as far as identifying alcoholic beverages… Ever heard of the internet?

Equally disturbing is the fact that the bar owners and distributors are the ones getting in trouble for this, since all of this beer was apparently legally purchased, taxes paid and all. Does the PLCB seriously expect every single bar and distributor in PA to constantly check their inventory against an always-updating list of nearly 3,000 brands? Seems like a pointless exercise to me.

Furthermore, why single out these three bars, when the same beers are being sold in bars across the state? And how about the fact that during the three-bar raid, some of what was confiscated at one location was left alone at another?

And honestly, was it really necessary to have a team of 15 armed officers conduct a simultaneous raid? Is that really a good use of our tax dollars? State Representative John Taylor called it a “ridiculous use of manpower.” He said, “I don’t know why they would use that many people to track down an issue like this that could have been handled with a routine inspection.” Yyyyep.

And how does this whole registration process affect our PA beer bar’s cellars? If a bar purchases a registered beer, then puts it away to age, what happens if the brewer doesn’t bother to maintain the beer on the registry? The police can just barge in and take away a bar’s collection of vintage beers. Apparently, as long as the beer was registered at the time of purchase, you can’t get in trouble for this, but that won’t stop the BLCE from confiscating the bottles in the first place. To get these beers back would mean more paperwork, and who knows how the bottles are being stored in the meantime, and for how long.

This law is just obsolete; in no way does it reflect the current craft beer scene. There is more to beer than the big macros; there are thousands upon thousands of beers made and sold in the US. It’s ridiculous to expect brewers to register every single beer they want to sell in PA, and it’s ridiculous to expect bar owners to check their inventories against such an enormous list.

As Lew Bryson pointed out on Wednesday, there may be some action as a result of these raids. This whole situation has got lawmakers in Harrisburg thinking that maybe, just maybe, the state’s liquor code needs updating. Representative Robert Donatucci, chairman of the House Liquor Control Committee, plans to hold hearings on whether or not PA beer regulations are antiquated. Let’s hope something good comes of this.

The thing that’s really sad about the whole situation is the fact that some anonymous person purposefully singled out the owners of these three bars, presumably based on some sort of grudge. Yes, this is an assumption, but it seems likely considering that there are any number of bars they could have ratted out, but they specifically chose the three owned by Leigh Maida and Brendan Hartranft. That is just bad form, and something that I’ve come to think would never happen in the craft beer industry. Really big shame.

Now that I’ve said my piece, what do all you readers think? Whether or not you’re a PA resident, I’d love to hear if this story has struck a chord with you. My opinion is pretty clear here… I think this stinks. But I’m hopeful that some change may come about as a result. Thoughts?

Rye is a huskless grain and in the brewing process is similar to wheat. This can be good and bad, as rye has a tendency to muck up the lauter and be a bit of a hassle to work with. That being said, it’s becoming one of the most popular adjuncts used in brewing with craft brewers.

Personally, I’ve always liked rye beers. They seem to be more full flavored and satisfying. One of my friend even tells me he gets less of a hangover from rye beers. While this can’t be proven, I think it’s best we assume it as fact until proven otherwise. On second thought, a splitting rye hangover the next day may not be the best way to disprove a theory. Let’s move on.

To better understand rye I set out to try a handful of rye beers and see what the journey taught me. I thought the best place to start would be Bear Republic Brewing Company, the only known brewer of a 100% rye beer.

Bear Republic Rye Pale Ale and Roggenbier

While EZ Ryder wasn’t available to try that day, I was able to find two other rye offerings, the Rye Pale Ale and Roggenbier. In the pale ale I got a spiciness that added a sharpness to the hops. This wasn’t a soft or rounded out beer by any means, but one whose rough edges were brought out. With the Roggenbier I got a rich malt flavor and nothing like I experienced with the rye pale ale. So far the rye experiment was producing differing results.

Part two of the rye tasting involved sitting down with a friend and going through another selection of rye based beer. On this afternoon we had three Bay Area representatives of the rye brewing scene: Ale Industries Rye’d Piper, Bear Republic’s Hop Rod Rye and He’Brew’s Lenny’s Bittersweet R.I.P.A.

Ale Industries Rye'd Piper, Bear Republic Hop Rod Rye, He'Brew Lenny's RIPA

Each of these beers had their own style to them, making a comparison of the use of rye even more difficult. The Rye’d Piper was rich and robust with flavors of milk chocolate and rye jumping to the front. Surprisingly this beer uses only 4.9% rye malt. Brewer Morgan Cox notes the use of carafa malt as working together with the rye to bring out such rich flavors, unlike anything I’ve tasted in a beer.

Hop Rod Rye is possibly one of the more famous of the rye based beers. The flavors here are similar to Bear’s pale ale: sharp. The hops are accentuated by the spiciness of the rye leaving an almost metallic character that plays off of the caramel and toffee malt flavors. Hop Rod Rye uses 18% rye malt in the recipe, astonishing when compared to the less than 5% in the Ale Industries brew.

With He’Brew’s Lenny’s R.I.P.A. the hops are less pronounced with the malts and rye stepping to the front. Slightly sweet, the rye fades back in with the rest of the malt in a very “Shmaltzy” way, adding chocolate and caramel flavors that seem to act as a heavy base on which the rest of the beer sit.

In the end, rye proves to be surprisingly versatile. From light to dark, sharp to soft, rye can add a distinct flavor to a beer that can’t be achieved any other way. Some may expect the flavors they have become familiar with in rye breads, but in brewing, there is an ability to bring out other sides of this grain. With 5 beers down, I was only able to scratch the surface of rye in brewing, but hopefully this provides some sort of introduction to an adjunct that is becoming increasing popular.

In the fall of 2010, Westbrook Brewing will become the sixth distributing brewery in South Carolina. Like many commercial brewers before him, Ed is living the homebrewer’s dream and taking it to the next level.

Ed Westbrook along the Wando River

I first met Ed in 2008 when I moved to Greenville, South Carolina and became involved in the local homebrewers club, the Upstate Brewtopians. Ed started coming to the meetings around the same time I did, and he quickly earned the nickname “Prolific Ed,” in order to differentiate him from another Ed in the Brewtopians.

Ed brewed so often that we had to institute the “Ed Rule” to limit the number of different homebrews a person could bring to a meeting to share with the group. Ed often brought between 5 and 10 selections each month. It would take us over an hour to just to sample his beers, but none of us really minded because his beer was outstanding.

So when I heard he was starting a commercial brewery in Charleston, there was no surprise, I just nodded my head in approval.

Runnin’ Down a Dream

Westbrook, 25, caught the craft beer fever while on a family vacation to England his senior year at Furman University. Having “real beer” for the first time opened his eyes and palate to the possibilities that beer had to offer.

He began homebrewing soon after in the fall of 2006 with an extract starter kit. Though Furman does not allow alcohol on campus, Ed managed to get away with brewing his own on the stove of his on-campus apartment. As his homebrewing enterprise began to take over the apartment, his three roommates never complained, as they reaped the rewards of his industriousness.

Despite his newfound homebrewing addiction, Ed managed to graduate with a BS in Computer Science in 2007. He immediately went into business school at Clemson, and finished his MBA in 2009. All the while, he was brewing at least once a week.

Upon graduating, Ed thought, “I felt like I needed to do something to positively contribute to the economy, so why not start a brewery?” So in May 2009, he began planning.

Why not?

The Brewery To-Be

Westbrook Brewing is going to start out on a 30-barrel brewhouse with 5 60-barrel fermenters and 1 brite tank, which is all being built as I type. Many new breweries opt to try and find used equipment to start on, but as Westbrook looked around, there were very few complete systems at that size available for sale, and trying to piece equipment together would only have saved a few thousand dollars. Ed figured might as well go for the gusto and start fresh and modern.

The brewery itself will also be new construction, a 14,000 square foot warehouse set to go up in Mt. Pleasant on Wando Park Blvd. off Longpoint Rd. near the Velocity Sports building. When asked what the biggest challenge has been to this point in the process, Westbrook said it’s proven to be closing on the property. That was supposed to happen in September of 2009, but has been delayed and should close by early April.

Given that Westbrook doesn’t have much experience on a commercial brewery floor, he understands the need to have experienced help to tame this beast. He plans on hiring an experienced brewmaster and at least one assistant brewer to manage production. Westbrook’s role will be primarily be managing and promoting the business, along with having input into recipes and styles.

It’s All About the Beer

Westbrook plans on starting with three year-round beers and wants to focus on Belgian styles. While he hasn’t yet decided on his lineup, he’s leaning toward having a Belgian Wit and a Saison, along with a third undecided selection.

Ed has long been enamored with the flavor and complexity of sour and farmhouse beers and wants to bring the funk with brettanomyces and various benevolent bacteria. That will make Westbrook rather unique around this area, since there are no other breweries around here that have a lineup of primarily Belgian beers.

The brewery will be visible from I-526 and a tasting room has been included in the plans, so they are hoping to utilize this and bring in fans and visitors to tour the brewery and sample the product. It’s all about developing a loyal following. “We want to establish a strong presence in the Lowcountry first. I’d rather have a lot of beer in one spot than a little beer all over.”

The Best View In Brewing

Today, Ed is busily producing test batches on his 1/2 barrel pilot system which he has set-up at his parents’ house on the marsh off Highway 41 in Mt. Pleasant. I had the chance to visit the test brewery, and I am insane with jealousy, as the view from the back deck of the “pilot brewery” is simply stunning. It’s as close to heaven as a brewer can get, and I would be brewing every day and I would never want to leave.

Westbrook Brewing Pilot System. The photo does not do the view justice.

While there, I was able to sample a few of Ed’s recent creations. The first was a Saison with brett funk. It had a good amount of wild funk, but it was subdued enough to be accessible. Next up was a Belgian Pale with a spiced fruit aroma, biscuit malt flavor and earthy finish.

Lastly, and certainly not least was the Uberbier II, a 22% Belgian Strong Ale. Needless to say, this will never see production in South Carolina, but that’s a damn shame. He and fellow Greenville homebrewer Bobby Congdon collaborated on this brew that used 80 pounds of grain, Belgian candy syrup, turbinado and demerara sugar. It was super rich and warming, but with surprisingly little alcohol burn. It had tons of caramelization from a three hour boil and finished with a slight Belgian funk.

There were around a dozen other beers fermenting away in the “cellar.” Prolific Ed certainly hasn’t slowed down since deciding to go pro.

The Pilot Cellar

Only time will tell if Westbrook Brewing will be a success, but knowing Ed, I give it every chance. He has a quiet confidence, and while some may call it the inexperience of youth, he’s staying calm and collected. Personally, I would be freaking out if I were starting a 30-barrel brewery, but when I asked about how crazy it’s been trying to get off the ground, Ed simply responded, “It hasn’t been bad.”

Ed’s literally taking it one day at a time, and I hope that in six to nine months I’ll be writing about Westbrook’s grand opening party.